Merve Tatlıca When I went to Heidelberg as a child, the only memory I had was of a footprint. Now, however, I have countless moments of happiness that permeate every part of the city.
In addition to the story carried by Schloss Heidelberg itself—which I will tell shortly—I would like to share a bit about my own footprint and story. Other cities were beautiful too, so why Heidelberg first? During my first trip to Germany as a child, I visited Heidelberg, strolling through its streets with my small steps alongside my parents. I don’t have many memories of the streets, people, antique shops, or the atmosphere of the city. The only thing I remember is a footprint, and how I placed my foot in it while gazing at the castle walls. Twelve years later, returning to complete the memories and finish the journey that little Merve couldn’t feel or complete… that’s why.
To be honest, I wandered through all the cities I visited with a thermos full of coffee, a water bottle, and a small cup of yogurt in my bag. İlber Ortaylı roughly says that if you want to explore a city or country, you shouldn’t sleep. I often did the same, waiting for the train with my essentials in my bag as the street lights were just going out in the morning.
When I arrived in Heidelberg, I saw the city gently waiting by a river hidden in the forest. As I walked toward the city center, the river seemed to flow differently, and the birds seemed to fly differently. I remember thinking, why am I so far away from this tranquility?
If you ever visit, I recommend taking a break to enjoy the silence while walking along the river before the tourists fill the place. Sit on the stones and listen to the city. I love taking photos and want to capture every view so that it doesn’t get lost. However, I believe some things can’t fit into a photo. The happiness and tranquility you feel when you close your eyes sometimes don’t come through in photographs.
Philosophenweg – Truth Lies in the Eyes of the Beholder
There were times when I felt like a wandering philosopher with thoughts in my mind while exploring the cities I visited. But the Philosophenweg (Philosopher’s Way) in Heidelberg was different from the others; it was a path that encapsulated my internal struggle, narrow walls, sense of confinement, efforts, and ultimately the view I would see.
It had stops that revealed the entire city before me, hidden behind narrow paths covered with trees where the sky was barely visible.
If you enjoy observing the bigger picture and walking and thinking without blending into the city’s colors, I can say that spending some time on the Philosopher’s Way—about two and a half kilometers—before diving into the crowd is the best way to get absorbed in the city’s atmosphere.
Heidelberg University
After spending hours with nature, I was ready to get lost in the music of the crowd and the colorful shops, stores, and cafes. Heidelberg has the longest pedestrian street in Europe, and I’m sure those who find themselves on Istiklal Street in Istanbul would love it here. Walking among the colorful German houses and culture felt like living in a fairy tale. However, this wasn’t what made Heidelberg significant and exciting for me.
Heidelberg University is the oldest university in Germany. Founded in 1386, this university exudes history within the vastness of Germany. Setting aside the Jewish professors who fled during the Nazi era, like every university here, this one also had its students organizing “Action Against the Non-German Spirit” and burning books in the university garden. It had truly peculiar but fascinating aspects for a university that became the center of humanism in the 16th century.
Historical significance and my interest aside, there’s a funny detail: while following the navigation, I failed to notice the Universitäts-Bibliothek (Heidelberg University Library) because it was under restoration. A note to add here is that if you are visiting Germany in the summer, keep in mind that the places you want to visit might be under restoration. The excitement of knowing what’s behind those curtains and standing on that street is something else, but the disappointment of not being able to see it still lingers within me. I keep telling myself next time, without knowing when that will be.
Schloss Heidelberg
Without turning this into a history lesson by recounting the Renaissance architecture of the castle, the bombing by the French, the lightning that split the castle in two, and who might have come and gone since its construction around 1214, I must say that looking down at Heidelberg from above and sitting alone on the bench where Goethe sat with his last love in the castle garden, thinking about my own love, made me dream of coming here with them, leaving the romanticism of Paris behind.
There are two ways to reach Heidelberg Castle: one is the funicular that goes up to the hill known as Königstuhl, and the other is the stairs for those who enjoy a challenge. I chose the stairs, taking my time and winding up, surrounded by greenery and ivy that truly refresh the soul. Upon reaching the castle, I bought my ticket and immediately started exploring. Inside the castle, there’s a huge pharmacy that has been turned into a museum, and an area where an enormous wine barrel is displayed—you have to climb stairs to see the top of the barrel. Unfortunately, the castle library, which I was interested in, was closed. I was ready to feel like a character in an Umberto Eco novel.
I wandered around looking for things to inspire me but found nothing. Finally, I stepped out onto the terrace, which has a window opening to the city. At that moment, I captured the memory of little Merve’s footsteps that I mentioned. The city, which had left behind the gloomy, rainy morning, was now bathed in sunlight, with clouds gliding across the deep blue sky, and I was filled with feelings that matched that moment perfectly. According to legend, the large footprint on the ground was made by a knight escaping from a lady’s chamber in the castle.
As I left the castle and started to wander in the garden, I didn’t know that Goethe had walked the same paths with his last love. Looking for a place to sit and enjoy the moment, I saw that bench. In such moments, when you pass by places where historical figures have sat or walked, you suddenly feel their spirit and witness their memories. The castle had endured many bombs and attacks, yet there I was, enveloped in the literature of history. A city contains many people and many thoughts within itself.
Before the Train Leaves
I don’t know what others might say if you ask them about Heidelberg. Would they talk about it being a university town or its history? Or, like me, would they speak of the peace, tranquility, and literature it brings? Before leaving Heidelberg, don’t forget to say goodbye to whatever it awakened in you when you first saw the city. As for me, I witnessed the joy and life that the city holds within itself one last time, sparkling in the early morning darkness, before boarding the train. Colorful buildings, trees, boats, the beach, locks hung on fences…
